On Reformulations and Reimaginings

On Reformulations and Reimaginings

From time to time, I revisit my formulas. Sometimes out of necessity, sometimes because the work itself has shifted under my hands and begun asking for something different. Some perfumes change because they have to. Others change because my vision does.

Several perfumes in my collection have recently undergone reformulation. In most cases, this was prompted by the discontinuation of materials I’ve relied on for years. Certain naturals and aroma chemicals, once stable parts of my palette, are no longer available or have changed in composition. 

That said, reformulation is not just about replacing what’s been lost. In most cases, it becomes an opportunity to refine the structure or hone my vision even further. Over time, my technique sharpens, my access expands, and I gain the ability to realize a scent more precisely than I could when it was first released. The result is not a reinvention, but a version that feels more fully resolved and aligned with my vision for what I want the scent to be.

I know many of you form deep connections with my work, and changes to a familiar perfume can feel personal. I do not take that lightly. When a formula shifts, it is not done casually. I work slowly, testing and adjusting across many iterations to ensure that what remains carries the same emotional and atmospheric weight. Some reformulations can happen in a month while others may take years.  In most cases, the spirit of the original is intact. 

If you own older versions of any of the scents listed below, I encourage you to treat them as time-marked variations—part of the ongoing life of the work, not outdated editions. I don’t believe in perfect preservation. Perfume, like any art, lives in movement.

I realize that keeping the same names can sometimes cause confusion, especially when a formula has changed. But I choose to keep them because each name carries a lineage. These scents are part of an evolving body of work, and I want to maintain that throughline rather than sever it each time a formula shifts. I’ve also had to make this choice out of necessity. Because of how often I’m copied, letting go of a name—even temporarily—opens the door for someone else to take it and use it in ways that dilute its meaning or mislead others. Keeping the names protects the integrity of the work and helps preserve the history behind each perfume.

The perfumes that have recently been reformulated include:

  • Vampire Romance: The new iteration omits dragons blood and harkens back to the dark florals of the very first version, with the inclusion of aged coffin wood and black lily for a more funerary feel. 

  • Vena Cava: The new iteration has a more prominent blood accord, but also has deeper fruit notes and some new woody elements. It has many of the same notes as the original, but with more depth.

  • Ghost Violet: The new iteration follows the same inspiration and contains many similar notes, but the violet is much more prominent. The violet accord here is the same as the one in Violet Marshmallow and Blue Violet. I view this version as a sort of convergence of all of my most popular violet compositions. 

Updated notes and descriptions are listed below. These will launch on Sunday night and sample sets containing the updated versions will also be available in limited quantities this Sunday 8/3 at 8pm EST.

Vena Cava
Aroma palette is woodsy, floral, and metallic. Highlights include blackened orris, blood accord, black cherry Merlot, black agar, guaiacwood, fog, and ylang ylang. 

This hauntingly beautiful fragrance conjures an olfactory vision of dark romance, lush red velvet, and blood. 

Vena Cava unfolds its darkness with initial notes of orris, ylang-ylang, brooding oud, and blood. The blood accord is the heart of this fragrance —sweet, berry-like and slightly metallic. The deep, hyperrealistic blood note is anchored and made mystical by our black agar accord—a dark, resinous interpretation of aged oud. Guaiacwood adds a subtle burn beneath it all, like embers smoldering slightly under wet earth.

As the fragrance evolves on the drydown, a deep black cherry merlot gracefully emerges through the mist, adding a layer of decadence to the composition before it settles into a woody and metallic symphony with flourishes of dark fruits and shadowy florals.

Vena Cava is lush and darkly romantic, the kind of scent that you might find lingering on the skin of someone who has lived for centuries.

Vampire Romance
Aroma palette is woody and darkly floral. Highlights include aged coffin wood, autumn leaves, blackened funeral lilies, opulent black roses, a trace of Malbec wine, and moonlit forest floor.

Deep dark florals and ancient woods characterize this 2025 iteration of our Vampire Romance fragrance. The opening is dry and solemn, marked by weathered and time worn coffin wood bedecked with traces of dark varnish, crumbling pulp, and the faint sweetness of woody decay. 

Blackened funeral lilies quickly emerge and remain the centerpiece of the composition, with a waxy, somber sweetness, dense and formal like a heavy floral arrangement left too long on a cold altar. Their presence is followed by opulent, velvety black roses. These roses are not fresh or green but dark, full-bodied, and heavy with shadows and a whisper of Somalian frankincense. A trace of Malbec wine weaves softly through the heart. It’s rich and red, just beginning to turn, with notes of bruised fruit,

All of these notes are balanced against a subtle backdrop of brittle autumn leaves scattered across a moonlit forest floor. This fragrance is a journey into dark romance mixed with timeless elegance, capturing the type of immortal romance that ignites and flourishes in pitch darkness.

Ghost Violet
Aroma palette is a floral gourmand. Highlights include antiqued violet, an antique wooden spiral staircase, aged dark vanilla, and a ghosting of vetiver.

As you ascend the grand staircase of an 18th-century mansion, the air carries a distinct chill, and a mysterious presence envelops you. A woman, ethereally adorned in flowing white veils, glides with an otherworldly grace across the hallway above. Upon her head, she wears a crown woven with withering violets, and in her hands, a bouquet of these delicate purple blooms. As she slowly fades into the tapestry of time, her passage leaves behind an enigmatic and intoxicating fragrance—the essence of Ghost Violet.

Our interpretation of violets transcends the ordinary floral, crafting a hauntingly beautiful bouquet that holds all the magic of violet perfumes from days gone by. At its heart is a true, prominent violet accord, plush and melancholic, steeped in nostalgia. Aged dark vanilla wraps the florals in warmth, while Himalayan cedarwood and a hint of vetiver ground the bouquet in quiet earth. As the scent settles, faint traces of clove and loam surface briefly, deepening the violet without overpowering it.

There is a distinct antique character to this fragrance, like something found in the folds of a forgotten love letter or on the collar of a silk dress sealed away in an attic.

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